DEAR BENICIANS AND BEYOND,

It’s been a good spring so far: the weather’s been kind and temperatures are just right. But lurking around the corner is what I think will be one of the hottest and driest summers in recent years, which is why I want to give a shout-out to everyone to be safe when outdoors. Watch your barbecues — it takes less than a second for a spark or a match to go out of control. Let’s do what we can to protect the outdoors and conserve water.

Having said this, I’ve made mention of Port Arthur many times and going up the Sabin River to parts unknown as a young boy. Back then hot, seasoned food was the norm, especially in Texas and on our trips to Louisiana. Mom would always come back from vacation with a new Cajun dish that Dad couldn’t wait to try. Over the years Cajun food was also known as Creole, which were supposed to be interchangeable, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, the two have some similarities and ingredient overlaps, but the methods and attention paid are like night and day.

Cajun food, in my opinion, tends to be humbler, more casual, peasant-type cooking brought down by the French who settled in the bayous of Louisiana. Creole on the other hand has more of a European flair, with Caribbean and African flavors left over from prior conquerors and previous settlers. Creole may even be called a “little fancier” by true folks down South. At the end of the day, I think Mom preferred Creole spiced food versus Cajun, as it tested her culinary skills, and who else did she have as a food critic but Dad.

Mom’s Cajun-Creole Chicken

This recipe is simple to make and should take no more than an hour, including the complementary salad. The Creole comes out by using mustard and the Cajun is created with the use of heat in the form of chilies and peppers.

Let’s start with four large, bone-in chicken breasts (skin on), grilled bone down with an ample amount of Louisiana “Slap Ya Mama” or “Punch Yo Daddy” seasoning. Heading up Interstate 80 to Davis at Pendrick Road, there’s a great fruit stop that carries Louisiana spices. Stop in and grab a few shakers and I promise you, you’ll be glad you did.

Even before the chicken is grilling, we need to kick the dressing in gear. Use 6 tablespoons olive oil, mixed with 4 tablespoons cider vinegar. Mix in a couple tablespoons of Creole mustard and 2 tablespoons honey and you’ve got a dressing of all dressings.

Let’s Get a-Cooking

Until seven weeks ago (more on this later) I wasn’t much of a salad person. Yes I’d eat one, but it had to have raw tuna or thinly sliced steak as an accompanying participant.

3 cans black-eyed peas, but if time permits, make the real deal
16 ounces grape tomatoes cut up nicely
6 ounces smoked ham cut in small 1/4-ounce chunks
1/3 cup chopped celery
A couple punches of salt
A couple shanks of ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Louisiana seasoning
1/2 cup or a little less of Creole mustard
2 tablespoons of honey
Some freshly minced thyme leaves
5 cups watercress sprigs

The larger the bowl the better, as Mom would always say. Whisk the dressing ingredients, then toss in the salad mix with 1/2 the dressing and give it a big whirl around or two, making sure everything gets touched. With the grill hot, smother the chicken with leftover dressing mix and flop down on the grill, bone side down. With the honey and mustard close to the grill, brush on the two giving the breasts a good coat every 8 minutes or so. The chicken will start to firm up and when the juices run clear and the meat starts to pull away from the bone, it’s done.

Let’s Eat

With your grill turned off and the chicken removed, sprinkle on some thyme and add more seasoning to taste. Add the watercress to the salad, with the chicken breast resting on top, and dig in. This serves four folks up nicely and it takes less than a hour to make, start to finish. So why not try it, but remember to add enough Louisiana spices to make a difference.

On a Final Note

Many of you remember my late good friend Bob Langston. There’s not a week that goes by, especially driving past First Street Café where we often met over burnt toast and thick great bacon, that I don’t think of the old cuss. After he was laid to rest, the City Council asked H.R. Autz step in and take over as treasurer for Benicia. H.R. ran a good campaign against Bob and deserved the chance to serve his city. I heard over the weekend that H.R. passed on, which saddened me. Even though I’d met H.R. a couple times, I really didn’t know him. But I’m sure he was a good family man and for sure a great dad and grandfather. In last year’s Third of July Parade, I actually met his grandkids who at one time in their young lives were models for Macy’s Kids, as the story goes. They were so proud of H.R. My thoughts and prayers go out to H.R.’s family in this difficult time.

H.R., please say “Hi” to Bob for me.

Adios …

Ken Paulk is a Texas native and Benicia resident who writes a weekly barbecue column for The Herald.