So here it is spring in Benicia and we are overrun with delicious citrus that the rest of the country would kill for. The oranges are easy, but what to do with all those lemons and limes?
For this article we’re going to address lemons and more specifically the common Eureka and Meyer although the recipes are interchangeable.
It drives me crazy to see beautiful lemons on the tree, ignored and unloved for season after season. First of all, it’s not healthy for the tree to leave the fruit unpicked if it has been through one winter. It hinders the growth of future fruit. Secondarily, there are lots of options for using those lovely lemons be they the tart thicker skinned Eurekas or the sweeter thin skinned Meyer lemons.
A little history and general information before we get creative.
Eureka lemons are known as the 4 season lemon as it grows year round and was first recorded as being cultivated in the 10th century through the Arab world and Mediterranean. The Meyer lemon is thought to be a cross between a mandarin orange and a lemon and was brought to America by a gentleman named Frank Meyer from China in the early 20th century. (No one knows what the Chinese called it.)
The best time to pick lemons is when they are yellow or yellow green and 2-3 inches in size. If they are greenish yellow, they will probably ripen off the tree. If they have become soft, you have waited too long so to the green bin or compost pile they go
The difference between the common tart Eureka and the sweeter Meyer, besides their level of sweetness, is the Eureka is thicker skinned and has more seeds and the Meyer is more of a yellow orange color, thin skinned and has fewer seeds. The sweetness dictates how each lemon is used. The Meyer can be used raw in salads, makes a great easy marmalade and is a more delicate lemon flavor. The hearty Eureka makes a great marmalade too, but is better in a vinaigrette, tart lemon bars and preserved lemons.
The wonderful thing about lemons and limes is that they add a freshness and sparkle with very little quantity. In other words, a little squeeze goes a long way. Also, they can be used on savory or sweet dishes. I can’t list all the dishes lemons make better but you can cruise the interweb for recipes. For savory dishes, any fish, chicken (think lemon chicken), pork (limes work well with pork too) and any pasta dish will be better with the addition of a spritz of lemon at the end. Ever made preserved lemons? There are some great recipes using them and they are super easy to make.There are some great salad dishes that include raw Meyer lemons, or you can add grated rind and/or juice to finish a summer pasta dish or try adding some to mayonnaise, creme fraiche or sour cream with your favorite chopped fresh herb, to top vegetables or fish. For sweets try lemon cake,rice or bread pudding, lemon meringue pie or, my favorite, lemon bars. Also, store versions can’t touch the flavor of homemade lemon or lime curd and it’s not hard to make.
Here are a few lemon recipes I’ve collected over the years. Most can use either lemon type but I will highlight if one if it is better suited than the other.

Roasted Chicken Thighs with Lemon, Garlic and Fennel
Adapted from kitchn
Serves 4

* 4-6 bone-in skin-on, chicken thighs
* 2 small fennel bulbs
* 4 cloves garlic minced
* 2 T capers or green pitted olives, chopped (optional)
1 lemon, either Meyer or other lemon, grated and juiced
* 2T extra virgin olive oil
* 2 tablespoons white wine or the juice from another lemon
* 1 t salt
* Freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Trim the stalks and fronds off the fennel bulbs and set the fronds aside. Quarter the bulb and cut each quarter into approximately 1” slices and put in a large bowl. Mince about 1 tablespoon of fennel fronds, reserving 1 tablespoon or so for garnish, and add to the bowl with the rest of the ingredients. Mix well and add chicken to the bowl. Toss to combine.
Arrange chicken and fennel in a large baking dish with the fennel around the outside and the chicken in the middle. Pour remaining juices on the chicken.
Roast about 30 minutes or until chicken reaches an internal temp of 106 degrees and fennel is soft.
Remove from oven and let rest for 5- 10 minutes. Sprinkle with reserved minced fennel fronds
Serve with rice, mashed potatoes or your favorite pasta and a spring vegetable such as asparagus, green beans or fresh peas.
Optional: spritz the finished dish with the juice of another lemon to add freshness.
Heidi Hint: if you nuke the lemons (about 6-10 seconds for each room temp lemon) you will get nearly twice the juice than you would normally.

Cotler Family Lemon Bars

* 1 cup all purpose flour
* ¼ cup powdered sugar, sifted
* 1 cube (½ cup) refrigerated butter or margarine, cut into about ½” slices
* 2 eggs
* 1 cup sugar
* 2 Tablespoon all purpose flour
* 1 ½ Tablespoon grated lemon peel
* ½ teaspoon baking powder
* 2 Tablespoon lemon juice

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a medium bowl, mix 1 cup flour and powdered sugar until well mixed. Cut in the butter until crumbly. Press this stuff into a 8” or 9” square ungreased baking pan until smooth and evenly distributed. This will be your crust. Bake 15 minutes only. It will be partially baked. Let cool.
For the lemon topping, add the sugar and eggs in a mixing bowl and beat until the mixture is lightly colored. Add all the other ingredients and mix until well blended.
Pour over the chilled partially baked crust and bake for another 20-25 minutes or unitl light golden. A thin crust may rise on the top but will settle when it cools.
Let cool completely.Just before serving sprinkle with powdered sugar, or not depending on your likes. Cut into squares and enjoy with a cup of tea or coffee.

Easy Lemon Curd
From epicurious
Makes 1 1/3 cups

* 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
* 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
* 1/2 cup sugar
* 3 large eggs
* 3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Whisk together juice, zest, sugar, and eggs in a 2-quart heavy saucepan. Stir in butter and cook over moderately low heat, whisking frequently, until curd is thick enough to hold marks of whisk and first bubble appears on surface, about 6 minutes.Transfer lemon curd to a bowl and chill, its surface covered with plastic wrap, until cold, at least 1 hour.
All of thee recipes work with any lemon and lies as well.
Enjoy the spring and pick that citrus!

Heidi Cotler is a self taught, certified culinary instructor who has loved playing with food for over 40 years. While working at Tower Records as Tower Books Vice President, she began teaching at Home Chef and has taught at Beyond Pots & Pans in Stockton, the Sacramento Natural Foods Coop, and Shallots Cooking School in Vacaville. After retiring from Tower, Heidi was co-owner of Spice for Life, a personal catering company focused on clients who required a special diet.
She now teaches private parties the joy of cooking and playing with food.

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