“Dreaming in Cuban” by Cristina Garcia, is the title of a wonderful book I read while recently on that island and how I felt for many weeks after taking a trip that was transforming in many ways especially for a culinary teacher. It was a daily adventure to explore what a wonderful country Cuba is not only for its unique cuisine but for its music, public art, beautiful beaches and mountains, its warm inviting people, and of course, the old cars. It is the largest island in the Caribbean protecting the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico between Florida and the Mexican Yucatan Peninsula and only 103 miles from the United States.
Since it is an island, there has not been a huge variety of local ingredients to choose from, but the roots of Spanish conquest with 500-plus years of domination and the influence of African cuisine by the huge wave of slaves (nearly a million in one year) as well as travelers from other Caribbean countries, have made this cuisine a unique and tasty one.
Before we get to the food, a bit of history is in order. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in the late 1400s, the introduction of European food, not to mention devastating diseases, were introduced to the Indian population of Ciboley-Taino-Arawak tribes, the descendants of which are said to still alive in the rural hills of Cuba. During the Spanish colonial era Habana (yes, it’s Habana, not Havana) was an important trading port with many Spanish immigrants passing through and bringing with them their culinary traditions; one of the stronger being from Southern Spain where you will find Cuban influences in Andalusian cooking today. The breakdown of U.S. relations in 1961 after the Castro revolution profoundly changed Cuban food. With the start of the punishing embargo, Cuba was cut off from U.S. and any of its trading partners’ imports and had to find another source. Castro having pronounced his revolution a socialistic one, the Soviet Union stepped in and introduced wheat, pasta, yogurt and other Eastern European foods to the small Island. Chicken and fish replaced beef and pork although pork is still a major source of protein today. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Cuban people faced a food crisis. The government stepped up and authorized private farms and national seed distribution and now 90 percent of Habana’s fruits and vegetables come from local farms. And since there was a lack of fertilizer all food in Cuba as raised organically. Still, nearly 70 percent of the food eaten by the average Cuban is imported but those numbers are coming down as the government loosens the regulations on owning land, farm animals and food production.
The Cuban diet consists of very little meat to this day. With the shortages of beef, chicken and pork and of course fish (it is an island, after all) are their protein sources. While their starch choices rely on roots and tubers such as plantains, malanga, yucca and potatoes, the dish we ate often is a Cuban classic called Moros y Cristianas, a delicious traditional black beans and rice dish. However, plantains were served in some form almost every meal. If you ever get a chance to have deep fried plantains, go for it.
The classic dish of Cuba is Ropa Vieja and although made with beef, it is made with the toughest and cheapest cuts and is therefore available and delicious. It is a stewed dish with a common spice sauce called sofrito and although you can buy sofrito in Latin markets, it’s not that difficult to make at home and is far superior to what you can find in a store.
I have included some flavorful additions at the end of the recipe and although I didn’t have any Ropa Vieja in Cuba with these, after doing some research I found that Miami Cubanos add them frequently.
For those of you who own a slow cooker this recipe is perfect. Just consult your slow cooker instructions for time adjustments.

Ropa Vieja

For the meat:
* 4-5 lbs. chuck steak bone-in
* 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil or lard for browning
* 1 large onion, chopped
* 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
* 1 green bell pepper chopped
* 4 cloves garlic chopped
* 2 bay leaves
* 3 cloves (optional)
* 1 cup chicken broth
* 1 cup red or white wine
* Water to just cover the meat

For the Sauce:
* 2 onions, sliced
* 2 green peppers sliced
* 1 red pepper sliced
* 6 cloves garlic diced
* 1 small can tomato paste
* 1 (32oz) can crushed tomatoes
* 2 teaspoons ground cumin (preferably freshly ground)
* 2 teaspoons paprika
* 2 teaspoons dried oregano
* ½ teaspoon cinnamon
* ½ teaspoon allspice (optional)

Optional Additions
* 1 cup green olives
* ½ cup sliced pimientos
* 2 tablespoons capers
* Juice of one lime

1. Heat a Dutch oven until it is very hot and add oil.

2. When oil is hot, add the beef and brown on both sides.

3. Remove the beef from the pan and add all the vegetables except the garlic.

4. Cook until the onions and peppers have caramelized, then add the garlic to cook for a minute or two more being careful not to burn it.

5. Add the beef back in and add broth, wine and just enough water to come up to sides of beef but don’t cover the meat.

6. Turn the heat down, cover and simmer for 2 hours.

7. Add the rest of the vegetables and spices and cook until meat is fork tender, about 1 ½ to two hours.

8. Remove the meat and let cool. Shred the beef and add back to the pot. If using capers, green olives and pimientos add them now.

9. Simmer for 10-15 minutes more to meld the flavors.

10. Serve over rice with a spritz of lime juice and a green salad.

11. Pour yourself a Cuban Rum and soda with a wedge of lime and enjoy!

Heidi Cotler is a self taught, certified culinary instructor who has loved playing with food for over 40 years. While working at Tower Records as Tower Books Vice President, she began teaching at Home Chef and has taught at Beyond Pots & Pans in Stockton, the Sacramento Natural Foods Coop, and Shallots Cooking School in Vacaville. After retiring from Tower, Heidi was co-owner of Spice for Life, a personal catering company focused on clients who required a special diet.
She now teaches private parties the joy of cooking and playing with food.

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